Rocky Mountain Summits · Idaho

My 10 Favorite Idaho Scrambles

Idaho has no shortage of rugged peaks, but these are the scrambles that stand out most to me: routes with good rock, memorable exposure, beautiful approaches and the kind of summit terrain that makes the climb itself as rewarding as the view.

A good scramble, in my opinion, has:
  • Limited brush
  • Solid rock
  • Scenic views
  • A little exposure
Old Hyndman Peak and the Black Rock Dike scrambling route in Idaho's Pioneer Mountains #1

Old Hyndman looks like a technical rock climb from numerous angles. However, there is a really stable and fun scramble to be had up the east face utilizing the "Black Rock Dike", a line that is indented into the face that provides a stable and fun scramble. Views from the top are stunning and so is Big Basin, which you hike through to reach this route.

Elevation
11,755 ft
Route
East Face (Black Rock Dike)
Roundtrip
13 miles
Elevation Gain
4,800 feet
Old Hyndman
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Scrambling on Snowyside Peak in Idaho's Sawtooth Range #2

Snowyside Peak in the Sawtooth Range not only packs the great views one would expect in the scenic Sawtooth Range, but it also delivers a fun and challenging scramble. The final 400 feet to the top require several ascents over walls that look like technical challenges from below, but each are on good rock and great fun. From the top, take in views of several dozen alpine lakes and hundreds of peaks.

Elevation
10,651 ft
Route
Southeast Ridge
Roundtrip
17 miles
Elevation Gain
4,000 feet
John Ferguson on Snowyside Peak
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Rock scrambling section on Castle Peak in Idaho's White Cloud Mountains #3

If you have climbed in central Idaho, you have seen Castle Peak. Castle is visible from half a dozen ranges in Idaho. Castle also offers up a terrific scramble from Chamberlain Basin via it's southface. The lower gully holds a bit of scree, but the top is nice, blocky rock and just enough exposure to get your blood pumping. Once you've earned the top, take in views of dozens of lakes and the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Elevation
11,815 ft
Route
Southface
Roundtrip
Varies (Numerous Approaches)
Elevation Gain
Varies (Numerous Approaches)
One of Castle Peak's scrambling sections
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Downclimbing exposed rock on Perfect Peak in Idaho's Sawtooth Range #4

A second entry for the Sawtooth Range in the top 5. The approach on this one isn't a clean as other peaks on this list, but the top 200 feet offer a challenge on route finding, dealing with exposure, and spicy scrambling. You are essentially surrounded by steep drop-offs on all sides. The tiny summit offers typical Sawtooth views that will thrill... so long as you can get your mind off that steep 30 foot pitch you have to downclimb at some point :-)

Elevation
10,269 ft
Route
Southeast Slopes
Roundtrip
9.9 miles
Elevation Gain
3500 feet
John Fadgen downclimbing on Perfect Peak
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Ivory Peak northeast ridge scrambling route in Idaho's White Cloud Mountains #5

Ivory Peak is located 1.7 miles northeast of Washington Peak in the White Clouds. We did this peak as part of a 6 peak traverse. The northeast ridge was spicy to say the least. Good handholds make it safe, but the snow on the rocks certainly made it challenging. This is one of those peaks where you are intimidated looking up at the route and then proud after you climb it. If you only do this peak by itself, you could probably complete this route from 4th of July trailhead in 3 hours roundtrip!

Elevation
10,408 ft
Route
Traverse of Northeast and West Ridges
Roundtrip
5.4 miles
Elevation Gain
2,000 feet
Ivory Peak's Northeast Ridge
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Diamond Peak in Idaho's Lemhi Range #6

A lot of people climb Diamond Peak because it is a 12er, a range highpoint, has 5k of prominence, and well... because it is cool. This peak dominates the skyline in the Birch Creek Valley. The east ridge route is clean down low (trail mostly), then presents several short walls that require class 3 climbing up high. Each wall has good handholds and just looks scary, but the climbing is fun.

Elevation
12,197 ft
Route
East Ridge
Roundtrip
7 miles
Elevation Gain
4,200 feet
Diamond Peak
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Big Basin Peak in Idaho's Pioneer Mountains #7

Another entry for the Pioneer Range. This one is scenic, but the fun doesn't stop there. The final 500 feet of climbing on the south ridge are challenging and you never really know you are going to make the summit until you take that final step foot onto it. Views into Wildhorse Canyon are worth the trip alone!

Elevation
11,510 ft
Route
South Ridge
Roundtrip
8 miles
Elevation Gain
4,000 feet
Big Basin Peak
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Angel's Perch south ridge scrambling route in Idaho's Pioneer Mountains #8

Back-to-back entries for the Pioneer Range here. Angel's Perch is a spectacular climb, especially when you come up from Wildhorse Canyon and up the south ridge. Knife edge ridges, steep dropoffs, and good rock all make this route a blast.

Elevation
11,687 ft
Route
West Face to South Ridge
Roundtrip
4 miles
Elevation Gain
4,200 feet
Angel's Perch South Ridge
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Leatherman Peak and Leatherman Pass in Idaho's Lost River Range #9

Idaho's 2nd highest peak is my 9th favorite climb. This one isn't necessarily a lot of scrambling like the other's on this list, but it does have a nice scramble finish. The route from West Pahsemeroi to the Northeast Ridge is on generally solid scree. The West Pahsemeroi trail is incredibly scenic.

Elevation
12,228 ft
Route
Northeast Ridge
Roundtrip
8 miles
Elevation Gain
4,100 feet
Leatherman Pass from the West Fork Pahsimeroi Trail
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Mount Andrus and rugged granite terrain in Idaho's White Cloud Mountains #10

Another entry for the White Clouds on the list! The first excitement on this trip is the gorgeous scenery in the Big Boulder Chain of Lakes. The next is the spicy scramble up Peak 11272, located just south of Cove Lake. This route is on good granite, but it isn't for the faint of heart. The tiny summit and awesome views are your reward for this challenging climb.

Elevation
11,272 ft
Route
North Ridge
Roundtrip
3 miles (from Cove Lake)
Elevation Gain
1500 feet (from Cove Lake)
Mount Andrus from D.O. Lee Peak
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